There are some watches that are difficult to modify without risking losing their original appeal. The Formex Essence 39 is probably one of them.

Since its launch, it has become one of the most important watches from the Swiss brand. A 39mm case, only 10mm thick, a COSC-certified automatic movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and most importantly, several technical solutions developed and patented by Formex focused on comfort.

For 2026, Formex could have simply added a few new colors. The brand chose to go a little further, and that doesn't surprise us at all, knowing the brand's CEO, Raphaël Granito.

Three new Formex Essence 39 models are arriving: Blue, Radiant Bronze, and Alpine White. But the real novelty is mostly on the inside, as this new generation adopts the Sellita SW200-2 Power+, with a power reserve extended to 65 hours, while also benefiting from a screwed-down crown and a new micro-adjustment system on the steel bracelet.

In a nutshell: what's new with the Formex Essence 39?

If you're already familiar with the Essence 39, here's what you need to know.

The new generation retains its 39mm steel case, its particularly versatile proportions, its patented suspension system, and its COSC chronometer certification.

However, Formex introduces three significant developments:

• a new Sellita SW200-2 Power+ with 65 hours of power reserve;
• a screwed-down crown;
• a new butterfly clasp with integrated micro-adjustment of 3 or 6 mm.

In addition, there are three new dials: Blue, Radiant Bronze, and Alpine White.

On paper, the differences might seem quite subtle. In daily use, they are much less so. Formex is improving what was already, for many, well above market standards. For our part, we can only applaud and admire.

A Formex Essence 39 that already had it all

It's probably best to start there. Formex didn't redesign the Essence. And we find that quite consistent.

The watch retains a diameter of 39mm, a lug-to-lug of 45.5mm, and a thickness of only 10mm. At a time when many brands continue to multiply diameters, these proportions are a large part of the Essence 39's appeal.

It remains present enough to maintain a sporty character, without giving the impression of wearing an oversized watch.

Its 316L stainless steel case also retains the familiar interplay of finishes: brushed surfaces, polished bevels, and a relatively complex construction for a watch in this category.

Water resistance remains set at 100 meters.

And most importantly, Formex retains its famous Case Suspension System, one of the brand's technical signatures.

In other words, everything that made the Essence 39 appealing is still there. The difference lies in the functionality.

The real change: the new Sellita SW200-2 Power+

This is probably the most important novelty of this Formex Essence 39.

The previous generation used the well-proven Sellita SW200-1, in a high-end COSC-certified execution.

The new one now adopts the Sellita SW200-2 Power+.

The change in number might seem trivial, but it's not.

The new caliber now offers 65 hours of power reserve, compared to approximately 41 hours on the previous generation according to Formex.

This is an increase of more than twenty hours. And above all, an improvement that can really be noticed in daily use.

65 hours of power reserve: why is it important?

Power reserve is sometimes presented as just an extra number on a spec sheet.

In this case, it genuinely changes how the watch can be used.

With approximately 41 hours of autonomy, taking off your Essence on Friday evening meant it was highly likely to stop before Monday morning.

With 65 hours, the situation changes: you can leave your watch aside for a good part of the weekend and find it still running when you put it back on your wrist.

For a watch that is designed to be extremely versatile and suitable for daily wear, the gain is particularly relevant.

This is typically the kind of improvement we appreciate at PAUSE: nothing spectacular at first glance, but something that genuinely makes the watch more enjoyable to own.

A movement still COSC certified

In most cases in the watch market, increasing a watch's power reserve comes at the expense of oscillation rate and precision.

Here, Formex maintains what was already one of the Essence's main selling points. The new Formex Essence 39 remains a chronometer-certified watch by COSC.

The Sellita SW200-2 Power+ used by Formex is selected in Chronometer grade. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 26 jewels, and notably uses a Glucydur balance wheel. Each movement is individually subjected to COSC controls.

Formex also retains its skeletonized rotor specifically developed for the watch, visible through the transparent case back.

The movement thus remains familiar in its general architecture. Simply more modern and, above all, much more enduring.

A screwed-down crown now

Second evolution: the crown. The new Essence 39 adopts a screwed-down crown.

Water resistance is still stated at 100 meters, which might give the impression that the change is unnecessary. That's not really the case.

A screwed-down crown primarily provides additional security in daily use of the watch. It reduces the risk of accidental manipulation and reinforces the feeling of robustness on a watch that is intended to be wearable almost anywhere.

Once again, Formex didn't try to transform the Essence into a diver's watch. The brand simply improved a practical detail, dear to many tool watch enthusiasts.

A steel bracelet that becomes even easier to adjust

This is probably the improvement that will be most often noticed once the watch is on the wrist.

Formex has always paid great attention to bracelets and clasps.

On leather, rubber, or textile straps, the brand has long offered deployant buckles with particularly practical micro-adjustment systems.

The steel bracelet of the new Formex Essence 39 is also evolving.

The new butterfly clasp now integrates an adjustment allowing for an additional 3 or 6 mm of bracelet length almost instantly, without having to fully open the clasp or remove the watch.

This might seem like a minor detail until you need it.

In summer, with the heat, wrist diameter can vary throughout the day. It is precisely in this kind of situation that a quick micro-adjustment becomes truly interesting. And it is especially consistent with Formex's philosophy and its obsession with comfort.

Three new Formex Essence 39 models

After all these technical evolutions, there remains, of course, what is noticed first: the dials.

For this new generation, Formex introduces three new Essence 39 models: Blue, Radiant Bronze, and Alpine White.

All three feature the horizontal grooves that have become characteristic of the Essence, machined directly into the dials. But their personalities are quite different.

Formex Essence 39 Blue: the safe bet

Let's probably start with the easiest to understand.

The Formex Essence 39 Blue uses a color deeply associated with the collection.

The dial receives a vertical brushed finish that allows it to transition from a relatively deep blue to much brighter shades depending on the watch's orientation.

On top, the horizontal grooves are individually machined by CNC and give the whole piece that immediately recognizable Essence texture.

It is probably the most versatile of the three novelties.

If you're looking for a Formex Essence 39 capable of working with almost any outfit, without taking many risks on color, the Blue seems to be the most obvious choice for us.

Discover the Formex Essence 39 Blue

Formex Essence 39 Radiant Bronze: the warmest

Change of ambiance with the Radiant Bronze. This is probably the version that most caught our attention when we discovered these three new Essence models. Its dial adopts a particularly shifting coppery bronze tone.

From the front, the color may appear relatively uniform. As soon as light hits the vertical finish, the dial reveals many more nuances, transitioning from deep bronze tones to much brighter reflections.

It thus completely retains the Essence's identity, but with a much warmer personality than the usual versions. For us, it's the most original of the three.

And the one that is likely to show the most significant differences between a product photo and reality.

Discover the Formex Essence 39 Radiant Bronze

Formex Essence 39 Alpine White: the brightest

Finally, the Formex Essence 39 White goes in a completely different direction. The dial turns white.

The horizontal grooves are still present, but this time the contrast is provided by the blued hands and indices.

And it is precisely this detail that prevents the watch from becoming too understated. Depending on the light, these elements can shift from a very deep blue to much brighter reflections. The result is more graphic and probably more dressy than the other two novelties.

Discover the Formex Essence 39 Alpine White

Blue, Radiant Bronze, or Alpine White: which one to choose?

The three watches have exactly the same technical foundation. The choice is therefore almost entirely based on color.

The Blue is the one we would recommend if you are looking for the most versatile option. It works easily for everyday wear and immediately retains the sporty and elegant identity of the Essence.

The Radiant Bronze is more expressive. Its color is more unusual, and its reflections change greatly with the light. If you already have several watches in your collection and are looking for something a bit different, this is probably the most interesting.

The Alpine White finally plays on brightness and contrast. Its white dial paired with blued elements gives it a sharper and slightly more dressy presence.

And as always with such elaborate dials, we recommend comparing them on the wrist as much as possible. Photographs give a good idea of each color. The light does the rest.

Formex: a Swiss brand that likes to find solutions

This is probably one of the reasons why we appreciate Formex so much at PAUSE Montres. The brand doesn't just try to differentiate its watches with dials or colors. A large part of its identity is based on small usage problems that it tries to solve.

A bracelet too tight in the afternoon? Micro-adjustment.

Want to quickly switch from a steel bracelet to a rubber strap? Quick release system.

A mechanical watch that needs to stay comfortable when the wrist moves? Case Suspension System.

This philosophy is obviously found on the Essence, but also in other Formex collections such as the Reef, the Field, the Essence Leggera or the Essence Ceramica.

This is what makes the catalog interesting. The watches remain relatively easy to understand, but the difference with some competitors is often found in the details.

Formex Essence 39, Essence 41, Leggera or Ceramica?

Formex's other strength is having gradually evolved the Essence concept.

The Essence 39 probably remains the most versatile choice.

The Essence 41 brings more wrist presence.

The Leggera explores a sportier and lighter approach through different materials.

And the Essence Ceramica pushes this research into materials and scratch resistance even further.

The goal is not necessarily to designate one Essence as "better" than another. It's more about finding the one that best suits your wrist and your way of wearing a watch.

At PAUSE, this is precisely why we try to offer several Formex configurations in store. The differences are much easier to understand when the watches are side by side.

Where to buy a Formex Essence 39 in France?

The new Formex Essence 39 Blue, Radiant Bronze and Alpine White will join the Formex selection offered at PAUSE Montres.

You can find them directly on our online store, with all the technical information and available configurations.

And if you want to discover Formex physically before ordering, we are also an official Formex retailer in Toulouse.

Our store allows you to compare the different Essence models, their diameters, dials, and also the different strap systems offered by the brand.

This is particularly useful with these three new dials. The Blue, Radiant Bronze and Alpine White all react very differently to light.

And a color that one might not have chosen from a photograph can sometimes become the obvious choice once the watch is on the wrist.

If you order remotely, we can also advise you before purchase and help you choose your configuration.

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