Formex Watch: Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue

Pre-order: shipping mid-October

Formex: the Essence 39 COSC, now equipped with the Sellita SW200-2 Power+ and a 65-hour power reserve

The Formex Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue is the latest evolution of one of the Swiss manufacturer's most iconic watches. Designed as a versatile mechanical watch for everyday wear, it combines a compact 39mm 316L stainless steel case with a detailed blue dial, a steel bracelet that visually integrates with the case lines, and an automatic chronometer-certified movement. With this new generation, the Essence 39 retains the design that made the Essence a success while significantly improving its mechanical specifications.

The Formex Essence 39 Blue case measures 39mm in diameter by 10mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm and a lug width of 20mm. It is entirely made of 316L stainless steel. The vertically brushed surfaces are combined with hand-finished mirror-polished chamfers. This alternation of finishes is found on the bezel, the bracelet links, and several details of the dial, giving the Essence 39 COSC Blue a look that is simultaneously sporty, technical, and refined.

One of the technical signatures of the Formex Essence 39 Blue remains Formex’s patented Case Suspension System. Four springs are integrated between the upper and lower parts of the case, allowing it to slightly follow the movements of the wrist. This system is designed both to improve comfort and to absorb some of the shocks transmitted to the mechanical movement. This Formex Essence 39 therefore retains one of the striking innovations that directly distinguish the Essence from a traditional three-hand watch.

The blue dial of the Formex Essence 39 COSC features a vertical brushed finish that makes its shades vary depending on the light. The horizontal lines characteristic of the Essence are individually machined directly into the dial. The applied indices and faceted hands also combine brushed surfaces and mirror-polished bevels. They are generously filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9, ensuring legibility in the dark. At 6 o'clock, the Formex Essence 39 Blue features a beveled date window accompanied by a date disc color-matched to the dial.

The main evolution of the Formex Essence 39 is found inside the case. Formex now adopts the Sellita SW200-2 Power+, a recent evolution of the SW200. This Swiss Made automatic caliber operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), features 26 jewels, and extends its power reserve to 65 hours. It is selected here in Chronometer grade, and each movement is individually certified by the COSC after a 15-day testing protocol. The Formex Essence 39 COSC thus benefits from a significantly longer power reserve than the previous version equipped with the SW200-1.

The Sellita SW200-2 Power+ of the Formex Essence 39 COSC features a Glucydur balance wheel, thermally blued screws, and a skeletonized rotor developed specifically by Formex. The movement is visible through a transparent caseback also equipped with sapphire crystal. Formex also states that it performs additional accuracy checks after casing to ensure the performance achieved during COSC certification is maintained once the movement is assembled in the watch.

The Formex Essence 39 Blue is protected at the front and back by sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The new generation also adds a screw-down crown, whereas the previous Essence ThirtyNine used a push-down crown equipped with a specific security system. Water resistance remains set at 10 bar, or 100 meters, allowing the Formex Essence 39 to be used for swimming and snorkeling according to the manufacturer's indications.

The Formex Essence 39 Blue comes on a solid stainless steel link bracelet. It tapers from 20mm to 18mm, can be removed without tools thanks to its quick-release system, and now features a butterfly clasp incorporating an instant micro-adjustment of 0, 3, or 6mm. The watch officially weighs 139g with its steel bracelet, compared to 65g for the case alone. With these features, the Formex Essence 39 combines precise fit, interchangeability, and everyday versatility.

Technical specifications

• Brand: Formex
• Collection: Essence
• Model: Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue
• Movement: Swiss automatic mechanical
• Caliber: Sellita SW200-2 Power+
• Grade: Chronometer
• Certification: COSC, individual certification for each movement
• Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour – 4 Hz.
• Jewels: 26
• Power reserve: 65 hours
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, stop-seconds, and date
• Case: 316L stainless steel with Case Suspension System, patented by Formex
• Diameter: 39 mm
• Thickness: 10 mm
• Lug-to-lug: 45.5 mm
• Lug width: 20 mm
• Weight: 65g case only / 139g with steel bracelet.
• Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Caseback: Transparent with anti-reflective sapphire crystal
• Dial: Blue, vertical brushed finish with individually CNC-machined horizontal grooves
• Hands: Faceted, brushed surfaces and mirror-polished bevels
• Indices: Hand-applied and faceted indices
• Luminescence: Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9
• Crown: Screw-down
• Bracelet: Solid stainless steel link bracelet, leather or rubber options available
• Bracelet width: 20 mm, tapering to 18 mm
• Clasp: Butterfly/deployant clasp with patented micro-adjustment system
• Water resistance: 10 bar / 100 meters / 330 ft
• Origin: Swiss Made; designed, developed, and assembled in Biel/Bienne
• Formex Warranty: 3-year international warranty.

Why choose this watch?

The Formex Essence 39 Automatic COSC Blue brings together several features rarely offered simultaneously in this format: a compact 39mm case, a COSC automatic movement, a 65-hour power reserve, a patented suspension system, and 100-meter water resistance. The new generation also improves security with its screw-down crown and comfort with the new steel bracelet micro-adjustment.

The blue dial, the multiple brushed and polished finishes, the sapphire caseback, and the decorated caliber also give the Formex Essence 39 a particularly high level of finishing for an everyday watch. The Formex Essence 39 Blue thus retains the versatility that characterizes the Essence while benefiting from a substantial mechanical evolution thanks to the Sellita SW200-2 Power+.

About the brand Formex

Formex is an independent, family-owned Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1999 and based in Biel/Bienne. The name Formex comes from "forme extrême" (extreme form) and reflects the brand's historical ties to engineering, motorsports, and the search for technical solutions applied to comfort. One of Formex's signature innovations is its patented case suspension system, which is still featured on the Essence today.

Formex watches are designed, developed, and assembled at the headquarters in Biel/Bienne. With the Formex Essence 39, the brand continues this approach by combining Swiss manufacturing, a COSC-certified Sellita movement, patented adjustment and suspension systems, and a construction designed for daily use. The Formex Essence 39 Blue particularly well illustrates the technical philosophy of this independent Swiss manufacturer.